Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Winter Vacation-Cambodia Part II

If you didn't catch part one of Cambodia, you can check it out here.

Oh, Cambodia...how could we ever get tired of your fresh, tropical fruit for breakfast!? Please come and teach Japan a thing or two:


Because of the amount of poverty in Cambodia, a number of NGOs (some good, some only good-intentioned, and some pretty much good for nothing) and sustainable tourism organizations have sprung up around the country. It's always good to try give back when you travel (which almost always begins with educating yourself on your destination's social and economic situations in the first place) by making a conscious effort to "think, shop, eat, drink, and buy local."

While keeping this mantra in mind, I had the opportunity to visit an organization which hires women living in poverty or on the streets to make spices, lotions, lip balms, candles, liquors, scented oils and perfumes, and body balms, all using local ingredients from Cambodia. They also hire ladies to make all of the packaging, using coconut shells, or dyed palm leaves to produce cartons such as the ones below, called a smok. Tres, tres cool:



In addition, as an ending to my Intercultural Communication's course on Cambodia that I taught to my Japanese students, we set a goal to raise at least 80 pens and pencils for me to deliver to Cambodian schools. Because my students are amazing, I'm happy to say that we actually got to drop off over 250 pens, pencils, and other small school supplies to an organization called PEPY, who will distribute them as needed! Also tres, tres cool!

For our final days in Cambodia, we traveled to its capital city, Phnom Penh (once hailed as the "Pearl of the Orient"). Instead of staying in a guesthouse, our favorite travel-connection site, Couchsurfing, led us to Darryl, an Aussie-transplant, and his Laotian partner, Dan. Both of them enjoy good food, good music and traveling, so it was great getting to know them for a few days:


And, did I mention that Darryl has an amazing apartment with hands-down the best view in the city (of the Mekong River, of course)!?! One of the nicest Couchsurfing accommodations we've had to date!



Phnom Penh's National Museum is one of the best museums I've been to in awhile! Here is housed a ton of relics, artifacts, carvings, and artwork from the majestic Temples of Angkor, not to mention from other aspects of Cambodian history and culture. It really is a fantastic place to visit after having already explored the temples themselves! The courtyard isn't a bad place for relaxing as well:


The Royal Palace...not quite as impressive as Bangkok's, but a pleasant stroll nevertheless:



On a bit of a depressing note, yet something that is a MUST while in Phnom Penh, we visited the former Toul Sleng High School, which the Khmer Rouge turned into S-21 prison during the genocide tragedy that happened in the 1970s.


As a part of the KR's unrealistic Communistic attempts to turn the entire nation into rice planters, thousands of people were brought here to be tortured into confessions against the KR, and then eventually killed.


The former classrooms were converted into torture chambers and cramped prison cells. 17,000 people were imprisoned here from 1975 to 1979...only 7 survived. During this time, the KR wiped out over 20% of Cambodia's population...teachers, doctors, people who spoke foreign languages, people who wore glasses, merchants, students, monks, businessmen--all of them were considered an intellectual threat to the revolution and were killed without questioning. Because of this time, a whole educated generation in Cambodia is now gone!




Just like the Nazis, the KR was meticulous in their record keeping. They photographed each and every prisoner who made their final days here. Men, women, children, and babies...all of their photos are on display here, giving faces to the ghosts that roam the halls and former classrooms...


A room where prisoners would be individually tortured until death:


If you've seen the movie, "The Killing Fields," you already have a good idea of the horrors from this time. If you haven't seen it, or don't know much about the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge (including the shallow mass graves just outside of Phnom Penh where you can walk among thousands of bones and skulls), read here for more background info. Definitely a part of history that we should know about and not forget!


Despite living through one of the world's worst modern crimes, civil and regional wars, continuous corrupt governments, extreme poverty, and near-destruction of their culture and education, Cambodia remains in surprisingly good spirits! There was rarely a Cambodian we met who didn't give us big smile once we started talking to him or her. Yes, the country as a whole is incredibly poor despite being host to one of the wonders of the world (and the tourism that comes with it), but this is an amazing country to visit! The people are incredible and, although they have a long way to go, it seems as if Cambodia is good at healing, moving on, and working as best they can toward a better future.





So part three of our winter journey (to come in the next day or two) actually takes place in Cambodia's northern neighbor of Laos! This is the plane that took us there, and we can only imagine what the U.S.'s Homeland Security Administration would think of the situation:


(To see more of our photos of Cambodia, check them out on our flickr site...or, you can wait until I have what I consider to be the best of the best--including a lot more people shots--up over on my photo blog sometime within the next week!)

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Winter Vacation-Cambodia Part I

For our winter vacation this year, we attempted two Southeast Asian countries in three-weeks! Crazy? Yes. But while it's nearly impossible to even get to know one country in that amount of time, we got a pretty good flavor of Cambodia and Laos, both of which left a good taste in our mouths!

First stop: markets, coconuts, beers, amazing food, and a ton of temples in the Cambodian epi-center of Siem Reap:


Amok--white fish doused in spices and coconut milk, then wrapped in a banana leaf and baked--is one of Cambodia's signature dishes. Heaven in a leaf, I tell you!


Siem Reap's night market is a slicked-up version geared mostly to tourists, but entertaining nevertheless. Here you can purchase your fair share of silks, spices, prints, clothing, lanterns, paper, t-shirts, coconut utensils, and other souvenirs, as well as get a beer or two at the bar, or a 1-hour full body massage for $5 at the "spa!" All in a colorful and quaint package:



The local markets, however, are the grittier, bustling pockets of everyday life, filled with everything from raw meats and fish, fruits and veggies, spices, baked goods, clothing, household goods, beauty salons, flower stalls...you name it, and it can usually be found there!

I'm a sucker for the local markets, so I was happy when we signed up to take a Cambodian cooking class that it included a tour of the downtown market to get explanations on and to purchase our ingredients:



Our instructor, and soon-to-be devoured feast from our Christmas Eve cooking class:


On Christmas morning, Jacob and I headed out on our rented one-speed bikes while it was still pitch-black outside, and rode 6 kilometers out to Cambodia's most famous site, the temples of Angkor. In particular, we wanted to catch sunrise at Angkor Wat, one of the best preserved monuments at Angkor, as well as the world's largest religious structure:


The ruins of Angkor (which was the seat of the ancient Khmer empire) cover and amazing area of over 1,000 square kilometers! It was the largest pre-industrial city in the world, and had over a million residents at a time when London was a little city of 50,000! Today, it's home to the ruins of over 1,000 buildings and complexes which, needless to say, can not be seen in a day or two. In fact, Jacob and I spent 3 days exploring some of the ruins, and barely scratched the surface of the beauty and mystery of the place...



When I was in high school, I remember seeing a calendar photo of an eerie looking place in the jungle with ancient ruins being eaten alive by massive covering trees. I had no idea where that place was, only that I had to visit it one day. That place was Ta Phrom.

Ta Phrom is one of the most popular Angkor temples, and one of the best for exploring (not to mention the coolest looking). Left to the clutches of the jungle (unlike a lot of the ruins, which have been cleared away), it looks pretty much how European explorers found most of the ruins at the turn of the century. The trees look amazingly like they're being poured over everything from a large pot in the sky!

We liked Ta Phrom so much that we visited it two days...a lot earlier on the second day to beat the tour groups (definitely worth it)! Oh yeah, and "Laura Croft" was also filmed here...




Our obligatory Christmas photo:


Christmas evening relaxation in our hotel courtyard before dinner...yes, I made Jacob wear the Santa hat as much as possible:



What $10-$15 USD/night will get you in Siem Reap:


For days two and three at the temples, we packed lunches and hired a tuk-tuk (motorcycle with a covered seating area...quite carriage-like) for the day to take us to the places we wanted to go and wait for us! We were able to cover a lot more ground with a lot less sweat!







For way more temple goodness (you didn't think 3 days only produced this many photos, did you?) check out the rest of our Angkor photos on our flickr site...we've got some good ones up over there!

In addition to more temple-hopping, we also got to experience some of the villages, people, and farm-life of Cambodia's beautiful countryside:





Tomorrow, part two of Cambodia...

Back With a Vengeance

So, we got a little bit of snow last night and this morning:













Sapporo doesn't beat around the bush in heartily welcoming us back from our Southeast Asian vacation!  We're getting our snowboards ready and hopefully will be out in the powder next weekend!  As of now, I'm in a post-vacation-photo-editing-frenzy, so will have blog posts up of the great journey as soon as possible...trying to hold on to those last remnants of hot, tropical weather before Hokkaido completely pulls me back into reality...